TREKKING WITH TERESA
TREK REPORT – Everest, October 2008
Lyn (Melb.) was first on the scene in Kathmandu,
with Helen, her sometime training buddy arriving
next day. A cool gin and tonic on a warm evening
at the Weizen was the ideal ice-breaker. Next day
Barbera (Sydney), Mark (Ocean Grove) and Des
and Christine (Perth) fl ew in an hour or so ahead
of Geoff , Janet and Noela who made up the Geelong
contingent. We got to Swayambunath just on dusk
amidst chattering monkeys and fl ickering butter
lamps. Way too dark for the steep stairs so we took
the easy road home for an early dinner at the BPD
and made a start on the pre-trek briefi ng while we
waited (and waited) for the food. Electricity supply
is ‘elusive’ at times in Kathmandu.
Sunday 12 October saw us walk down to Th amel
after breakfast – fascinating if not scenic. Today was
the usual frenzy of gear shopping and banking. The
ATM was less than generous but other arrangements
were quickly sorted. Our last ‘civilised’ meal was consumed at the Weizen with a fl urry of show-andtell
(mostly new trekking gear).
 First lunch |
The flight to Lukla was an interesting one – not my
favourite kind. A rather drastic wobble as the co-pilot
took over on the way and then a curious diversion at
the last minute had me a bit worried – this was only 4
days after the fatal crash at Lukla airport remember.
I distinctly recall one ridge which was crossed at
such a low altitude I could have reached out of the
window and picked the fl owers! Still, somehow we
survived and ate a good breakfast at the Kumbu
Resort while the porters got the measure of the gear
and met their customers. Lahar and Khaji from
Pokhara, and Dorje and his brother Danraj fl ew up
with us. Bir, Kancha, Subash, Mingmar, Dhan, Akal
and Lagpa soon got us organised. Off we go!
I think Chris found the first day a bit overwhelming
but the rest were fi ne, though I arrived at Phakding with a huge headache (caff eine withdrawal probably).
Our lodge was chock-a-block. It rained just as we
got in, but only till about 8 pm when a dazzling
full moon came over the ridge like a searchlight.
Next morning about half the crew opted to visit the
gompa across the river while the rest of us basked in
the early sunshine and with an extra cup of coffee.
Leaving around 11, it took us all day to reach Monjo.
Had a long lunch at Benkar. Th at little corner, just
past the waterfall, is a great sun-trap.
The Nirvana Lodge lived up to its name and the
trekkers were, of course, delighted with their rooms,
the apple pie and then the singing and dancing that
followed. A great night.
We head off early the next day after a top brekky
and with warm boiled eggs in our pockets – it’s a
long way to Namche with no more tea houses. The
trail is fl at at first and right beside the river – but not
for long. Over the ‘scary’ bridge and then up and up
and up and up. Geoff , Janet, Noela and Lyn are soon
way ahead of us cooeeing from high above. It’s not
long before we get our first glimpse of Everest, it’s
just the spur everyone needs. after a long spell at the
chauthara to refuel, we resumed the slog. It’s easier
now but, because the altitude is starting to kick in, it doesn’t feel like it. We really needed a cuppa at the
shack just before Namche.
Our usual haunt in Namche was full up, actually
the whole place was awash in trekkers. I’d never
seen it so full. Our runner, Dhan, found us a place
at the Sherpa Village Inn. A small, old-fashioned
lodge. The rooms and the loos were just ‘OK’ but
the staff were really trying their best and so we had
a great stay. after a look-see at the big peaks in the
morning we took off for a day-walk out to Th amo.
It was great this season. The monsoon had been
exceptionally heavy. Gentians in profusion and a
small, red-foliaged plant I couldn’t identify covered
the hillsides. The peaks were clear all day. Lunching
at the Maya Lodge we met their daughter who had
won the Kala Pattar to Namche marathon (and
placed several times).
Chris, Helen and Mark took the day off and were
basking in the sun reading when we left them
– avoiding the ‘wet patch’ outside Des’ window of
course!!
 Des doesn’t want any lunch!! |
Trekking around to Kangzuma was a nice easy day’s walk wiTheverest, Th amserku, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Kang Tenga and Kwangde blazing in the midday sun. Th is is truly inspiring scenery. The next day’s trail looked daunting up to Thangboche but we were all in good shape (apart from my knee) so felt optimistic.
 Teresa and Danraj at Namche Bazaar |
 Teresa, Lahar, Mark, Khaji, Barbera, Dorje, Geoff , Janet, Christine’s Helen, Des, Neola and Lyn |
Chris, keeping on and on ........
An early start on a nice fresh morning saw us dropping down through the pines for morning tea at Phunki Tenga. Geoff , Janet, Noela and Lyn were clearly setting a faster pace so they soon set off ahead with the idea that we would reconnect with them at Dingboche. So, up THE REALLY BIG HILL. Some found it easier than others but nobody really struggled this season. We demolished a vast quantity of chips at Th angboche Bakery though. Descending to Devouche we passed the fabulous new lodge built by the Lali Guran’s owners – it will be ready for us for next season. The good thing about the Ama Dablam lodge is the dining room – small room with a big stove. The lodge was packed but somehow everyone got the right food. Lyn, Des and I ducked out at 5.30 to visit the ancient Ani Gompa and got super sunset pics.
Everest – looking good at sunset
Next morning was a bit frosty underfoot till we
crossed the river for a rest on the rocks – this has
become a bit of a ritual. We were uncertain whether
Somare or Dingboche would be our halt for the night
so we kept our options open till after lunch. Everyone
wanted to push on and I think the lead group were
pretty surprised to see us stroll into Dingboche
around 3.30. Me with an ‘altitude headache’ and
Lyn not looking much better. Archie from Georgia
put ‘a little colour in my tea’ after dinner (Khukri
Rum) so a good night’s sleep was ensured. Anyone
who ventured outside to the loo during the night (or
went for a stroll to overcome their claustrophobia) would have seen the moonlight on the peaks –
sensational.
Helen, Mark and Christine opted to stay down at
Dingboche today. They climbed up to the stupa for
a better view. It is a very lovely spot to spend the day.
Totally in awe of nature. The Chukung mob set off
with only Des and I planning to return later in the
day. Des got really fi red up and climbed a small peak
with Danraj before lunch. after lunch we left Janet,
Geoff, Noela, Barbera and Lyn with Dorje, Kancha,
Khaji, Mingmar and Bir to have a crack at Chukung
Ri the next day. It was four days before we saw them
all again. They all made it to around 5,700 metres.
All agreed it was ‘amazing’, ‘fantastic’, ‘brilliant’ and
REALLY, REALLY HARD !!!
 Th e ‘Summit Team’ |
 Local remedy |
 Easy bridges |
Meanwhile, our band of fi ve did the long trek back
down to Phunki Tenga – it’s a really long day. The
last one to bed was me – at 7.20!
The ‘B team’ had time for a very, very long lunch
at Kangzuma (who wouldn’t want to spend time
looking at that view again). Kumjung in the
afternoon was very civilised. Wide beds, reading
lamps, power points, tiled bathrooms and a visit to
the local bakery for Danish pastries and cappucini.
The walk over the ridge to Namche was great. No
wind, warm sun and a little boy fl ying his kite from
a hilltop while singing his head off . Lyn and Barbera
came into Namche the same way and were similarly
enamoured of the route.
 Janet – in charge! |
Des tries yak herding
Namche was a frenzy of emails and phones. I shopped a little (hope you like your t-shirt Frank). International calls at 100 rupees ($2) per minute were brief to say the least. Noela had an ‘emotional moment’ in the internet café on the news that her daughter’s baby had come three weeks early. A 7 pound boy called Leo – congratulations!!!
The downhill run to Phakding felt really easy with increased oxygen and less altitude. Lunch in the garden at Nirvana was bliss. Next morning Barbera shocked us all into fi ts of laughter by putting on her mascara after breakfast – back to civilisation I guess.
Beautiful children
On our last day some of us took the ‘porter route’
which is a small trail closer to the river. Didn’t
pass anyone at all. Barbera and Lyn shocked some
oncomers with the local remedy of chrysanthemum
leaves up their noses – it clears your sinuses
apparently.
At Lukla we visited Mingmar’s dad Hem for tea and
then Bir’s lovely family. It was a bit dark and smoky
but the spuds were great (again!).
Another beautiful baby
First flight out of Lukla meant up at dawn but the
sunrise on the peaks around the airstrip was a delight.
The flight was uneventful (unless you count taking
off on a 500m runway steeply downhill into the void
at all interesting). It was warm in Kathmandu. Vast
quantities of hot water were consumed at the BPD
(free at last). When I knocked on Mark’s door an
hour or so later I nearly said ‘sorry, wrong room’ to
the guy that answered. A clean t-shirt and a shave
had changed him almost beyond recognition.
And another lovely little girl
Banking in town certainly cheered up the cashstrapped
trekkers. Everything had increased in
price this year, so far from becoming the ‘Bank of
Teresa’ as is usual on trek, I ended up fi nishing the
payroll back in town for those staff who fl ew down
with us. The Aussie dollar is languishing at less than
48 rupees on our return. However, shopping for
handicraft s, jewellery, clothes, etc. is still such good
value in Nepal that everyone got great souvenirs and
gift s for themselves and their families.
So, Lyn and Helen are off on a raft ing trip, as are
Des and Christine. Noela, Geoff , Janet and Mark are
heading back to Oz (Noela can’t wait to see the new
grandson).
Barbera has opted to do ALL THREE TREKS this
season so we are having a well-earned day off before
the next gang start arriving. Th anks folks, you were
a great group.
Cheers,
Teresa
★ ★ ★
The next Everest Trek is slightly longer (2 days
more) and will go all the way to Kala Pattar and
Everest Base Camp. It starts in Kathmandu on 4
April. Not quite full. Phone 03 9315 9617 or email teresadidi@slowtrekking.com or vonschwichtenberg@gmail.com, teresadidi@slowtrekking.com for more info. Website at www.slowtrekking.com.
 Mark with his trekking mates  Leisurely lunch |
 Bye folks! (Teresa at Th ado Koshi, near Lukla) |
YOU CAN DO THIS!!
Acknowledgements: Frank Jones, Desktop Dynamics, Geelong (editing & layout);
Lyn McKelvie (some of the photos).
