EXPEDITION TO MUKTINATH - JEEPING OR TREKKING
NOVEMBER 17 – DECEMBER 3, 2025
I often hear people say that they wish they had visited Nepal when they were younger, because now it is a bit late. At 71 years of age, I keep finding new ways to get out into the Himalayas on these old dodgy knees, and hope to keep enjoying the Himalayas for many years to come. However, quite a few of the friends who come with us are younger and fitter. Last season Ekki and I, along with friend Helen Walker, devised a wonderful new trekking experience. Jeep-trekking. We followed the traditional salt-trading and pilgrimage route into the Anapurna, from Pokhara to Muktinath and back. It was marvellous. I had been struggling with knee problems for about 9 months so was not sure how much of the trek I could do. Turned out to be quite a lot. I had done a few half-day hikes on the Pike Peak trek so not totally unprepared. We trekked about half of the 10 day trek. We jeeped in through the steep foothills, firstly to Tatopani and next day to Kalopani. Where the trail levelled off, in the Kali Gandaki valley, we started trekking. We trekked to Tukuche, my personal favourite lodge, then Marpha, Jomsom and Kagbeni. We jeeped up to Muktinath and down the far side of the valley via Jhong on the return. This season I would DEFINITELY STAY IN JHONG OVERNIGHT. We jeeped the dusty road back to Kalopani and then trekked down to Ghasa. There were always jeeps to be had, we did not need our own as it turned out.
These days, local busses lumber up and down fairly frequently too. We trekked off the road wherever we could. Were we cheating, or just making it possible? We thought we could offer this as a trek this year, thinking that perhaps people of various abilities could participate, even partners or friends who have quite different levels of ability or fitness. Of course, trekking EVERY day is an option, as is jeeping. Feedback appreciated.
Here is a proposed itinerary. Could be a little later….
| NOVEMBER 17: | Arrive in Kathmandu. Just give us your flight details. Transfer to the lovely International Guesthouse, simple rooms but lovely garden full of architectural antiques. Dinner somewhere nice. Check your gear. Banking, etc. |
| NOVEMBER 18: | Transport, jeep or minibus, to Pokhara. Takes around 8 hours and is extremely scenic. Plenty of stops for drinks, food, loo, etc. Nice lunch on the way. Evening stroll by the lake, dinner at an outdoor café? |
| NOVEMBER 19: | Up early to be paddled across the beautiful Phewa Tal.
Trek up about an hour, very slowly, to the Peace Stupa
for a big breakfast with a view. This afternoon you can
finish shopping for trekking gear, if needed, and change
money, buy snacks, etc. I will be organising the porters
and the trekking admin. Permits, insurance, etc. |
| NOVEMBER 20: | Jeep up to Tatopani at 1100 metres. 4 – 5 hours, spectacular drive. Beautiful upmarket lodge. Walk around the village. Still warm enough to have a drink in the garden in the evening. |
| NOVEMBER 21: | Jeep again today, all the way to Kalopani 2650 m. The trekking up to Ghasa is fabulous, though a ride from there to Kalopani will be necessary, and fairly easy to arrange. If not, we will see you in the morning. At Kalopani, another rather fancy lodge, we can take a walk in the woods this afternoon. |
| NOVEMBER 22: | Trekking is easy now so anyone could do it. A jeep option is always available. On and off the road to Tukuche, between Daulaghiri and the Anapurnas with Nilgiri ahead. It does not get any more spectacular than this. Beautiful lodge in an old salt trader's house in Tukuche. |
| NOVEMBER 23: | Trekking again? To Marpha is lovely, through junipers and pines, via the Chairo Tibetan refugee camp for a cuppa. Marpha is bizarre. The backstreets are untouched for centuries, the main lane is very popular with Nepali tourists. You can trek on to Jomsom or get a lift here. Jeep all the way is an option of course. Jomsom, 2800m is bustling. Big airstrip. Shops. ATMs. |
| NOVEMBER 24: | Trek to Kagbeni 2800m. About 4 hours. So easy anyone could do it. Jeep option ALWAYS there. In the flat, stony river bed, looking for fossils along the way. Early lunch at Eklai Bhatti. Another very cosy traditional lodge at Kagbeni. Tibetan culture now. 500-year-old monastery. Glimpses of Upper Mustang, the Forbidden Kingdom. |
| NOVEMBER 25: | Jeep up to Muktinath. Visit the ancient temple, Hindu, and the Flame and Fire in the Rock, Buddhist. Stunning views. I reckon jeep up, look at temples, then trek down to Jhong, c3000m. Really ancient village with basic accommodation. Wonderful. Views to Daulaghiri behind the ancient gompa are amazing. Wander around the village. Rustic beyond belief. |
| NOVEMBER 26: | Trek a long, slow, easy descent to Kagbeni. Jeep could be an option but it is very easy. About 4 hours. |
| NOVEMBER 27: | Jeeps are a good option for all of us today. Back to Kalopani, 2650m. We may decide differently on the day. We could drop some trekkers along the way to trek in behind us. |
| NOVEMBER 28: | Trek or jeep to Ghasa…..to be decided at the time. |
| NOVEMBER 29: | A steepish trek down to Tatopani. Jeep all the way. Or,
trek half-way then jeep. We can make this up on the day. |
| NOVEMBER 30: | Back to Pokhara today, definitely by jeep. The trek takes four or five days. Easy, scenic ride. Pokhara, 600 m, warm and welcoming. We have a beautiful hotel here. Blue Planet. Street 9a. Google it. |
| DECEMBER 01: | Fly back to Kathmandu. International Guesthouse. Hot showers, stored luggage. Yangling nearby – best momos ever! |
| DECEMBER 02: | A day in Kathmandu. Sightseeing. Shopping. Bouda in the evening for the world's biggest Buddhist stupa and an interesting Tibetan restaurant. |
| DECEMBER 03: | Time to go home. We will get you to the airport in plenty of time. If you want to stay on, we can arrange that. |
This holiday of 17 days will cost $3950 AUD, which is about 2350 euro or $2450 USD. This would include EVERYTHING. From the airport pick up, until we drop you back there, all the costs are on us. Taxis, hotels, jeeps, lodges, EVERY meal and drink, trekking permits, internal flight, and a personal porter, properly paid, clothed and insured. And of course, Ekki and I will escort you on every step of the way (or every jeep ride).
The lodges and hotels on this trip are tip top. Most lodges have attached bath rooms with western toilets. Jhong could be the exception. We will take a full compliment of porters, for the days when we all want to trek. A small luxury. You can contact me at vonschwichtenberg@gmail.com and our website is www.slowtrekking.com. Our first trek of the season, to Pike Peak is there.
YOU COULD DO THIS!!
Cheers,
Teresa didi and Ekki
……………………………A few pictures of last season's jeep-trek…..
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YOU COULD DO THIS!!
